Monnaie

Uplifted: The History of Underwire Bras

Uplifted: The History of Underwire Bras

Bras – we’re a little obsessed with them here at Scarlett Gasque! But have you ever wondered how they became the stylish, supportive garments we know and love today?

Believe it or not, historians have found evidence of bras dating back to ancient times, with Roman and Indian sources both depicting women wearing bra-like items while exercising. From ancient bandeaus to victorian-era corsets, right through to bralets and sports bras – the bra has been evolving for millennia.

This month, we're taking you behind the seams to explore the evolution of bras, with a special focus on the underwire – an innovation that revolutionised the style and functionality of women’s underwear for good.

Great breast support starts with a perfectly crafted underwire, so while you’re here why not check out our pin-up and burlesque inspired bras and corsets to add a little lift to your lingerie drawer? But first, let’s find out more about the origins, craftsmanship and legacy of underwire bras…

Origins: Before the underwire

Undergarments for breasts have been a staple in women’s wardrobes for thousands of years – and their wide use is depicted in everything from statues made by ancient Greek Minoans to Roman depictions of women in bandeaus, all the way through to the iconic silhouettes of the corseted Victorian-era. 

The earlier undergarments, from Ancient Greece and Rome, would be recognisable as bras to the modern woman – but it isn’t until later that undergarments provided structure and support. From the Renaissance to the 20th Century, the corset was a popular – although sometimes controversial – garment worn by western women of all classes. They were often made from whalebone or strong, durable metals that were relatively easy to find or produce before the industrial revolution.

Then, in 1898, Parisian innovator Herminie Cadolle made a groundbreaking fashion shift. She cut the corset in half creating two distinct garments, one for breast support and one for the waist, effectively laying the foundation for the modern bra as we know it. This innovation allowed for greater flexibility and comfort than had ever been possible with traditional corsetry, and it was marketed as the corselet-gorge.

Cadolle’s creation remained obscure for a while, as society and fashion were still tightly bound to the hourglass figure that corsets helped to shape, and the materials that could be easily produced. However, as ideals shifted and fashion gradually leaned towards lighter, more breathable options – especially as physical activities for women became more accepted – the idea of a structured bra with dedicated bust support began to gain ground.

French Women Inventors (2023)

Popularity: When did underwire bras become popular?

While Cadolle’s bra designs featured “bust supporters”, the first iteration of the underwire as we know it wasn’t invented until 1931. This can be partly attributed to a larger female workforce and a shift in women’s societal roles. Throughout the 20th Century, the demand for bras with better support and fit massively increased.

We can thank Helene Pons for the birth of the underwire – she patented a bra in the US in 1931 that incorporated open-ended wire loops across the chest. Her designs were developed and perfected by various designers in the US and Europe throughout the decade, until the beginning of World War II. This war brought about an abrupt pause to innovation, primarily due to prioritising materials for the war effort. Once metal was once again available for domestic use, manufacturers continued to develop underwire bras and make them accessible to everyone.

1931 Patent

By the 1950s underwire bras had gained widespread appeal. This period also saw a revival of corset popularity due to many women aspiring to recreate the hourglass silhouettes of silver-screen stars like Marilyn Monroe and Elizabeth Taylor. This shift not only redefined women’s lingerie but also marked the beginning of the underwire bra as a staple in fashion history, and lingerie drawers!

Craftsmanship: How are underwire bras made today?

The underwire bras of today are typically made using purpose-built machinery and tools. The softened wire is measured precisely and cut to size, then divided to create two cup sections. Next, it’s shaped and set into the curved, supportive form that gives the underwire its characteristic structure. Tips are then added to the ends of the wire to prevent fabric wear and rubbing.

Why choose metal underwires for long-lasting comfort?

In the beginning, corsets and breast supports were made from strong, naturally occurring materials. While these were durable, they lacked flexibility and provided little comfort to the women who wore them. As technologies and materials improved, so did underwires! While some manufacturers use plastic, others favour metals like steel or a nickel alloy. Plastic underwires are lightweight and cheaper to produce, but they can break easily and poke the wearer. They’re also not great for the environment.

The best modern underwire bras are manufactured using high-quality, durable metals – like we do at Scarlett Gasque. Our metal underwires and steel spiral corset boning not only provide better support and structure to the breasts than their plastic counterparts, but they’re also more durable, comfortable and better for the planet!

Legacy in lingerie: the underwire bra

The underwire bra is now a lingerie staple, crafted to mould, lift, flatter and enhance our natural curves while providing enduring comfort. And today, despite fast-fashion and ever-changing tastes, underwire bras are everywhere – from shaping the iconic silhouettes of famous celebrities to supporting the physical demands of boss babes and mums!

Add a little lift to your lingerie drawer

Our bra collection pays homage to this legacy. Whether you’re buying sexy lingerie for the first time, or have been doing so for years – when you invest in a Scarlett Gasque underwire bra, you’re choosing a statement piece that’s designed to last.

From the rich royal purples of our Forget-Me-Not Bra to polka-dot soft pink mesh and pastel tones – there’s something you’ll love in this collection. Browse now to find your perfect fit!

Scarlett's Bras

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